Hiking up Mount Pinatubo

On Christmas Day 2011, just a few hours after Moni and Kev had touched down in Manila, we all headed north to climb Mount Pinatubo in the December sunshine. The alarm was set for 2.30am and having hit the road 90 minutes later, we were at the prearranged meeting point ready to board our jeep at 6am.

The first leg of the journey in the 4x4 lasts almost 90 minutes and is over extremely rough terrain. Suspension was a luxury we weren't afforded in the vehicle, so needless to say it was tough on the joints at times getting bounced around, as well as up and down and from side to side.

The trek culminates in an exhilarating 2 hour uphill hike along a dried out river bed. Much of the scenery is grey in colour, due to the layers of volcanic ash which still cover almost the entire landscape.

After reaching the crater lake Moni, Jule and Kev ignored the warning not to swim in the water and instead they all took the plunge in the true sense of the word. It was obvious that none of them regretted it.

The view of the lake itself was truly spectacular and it was an incredible way to spend Christmas.

The American Cemetery Manila

The American Cemetery and Memorial in Fort Bonifacio is the final resting place for over 17,000 military personnel who lost their lives in World War Two during operations waged in the Far East. With almost twice the number of war dead as the US cemeteries in Normandy resulting from the D-Day landings in June 1944, it contains by far the largest number of graves commemorating U.S. fatalities from the Second World War. It is situated in a residential area on a huge expanse of land measuring 152 acres in total and the entire cemetery is officially recognised as sovereign territory of the USA.

The headstones are aligned in a circular formation and set among a variety of tropical trees and shrubs. A large white chapel at the cemetery's centre displays the history of the US armed conflict in the Pacific, as well as India, Burma and China. Over 36,000 names are also inscribed in the huge stone tablets, honouring those officially listed as missing in action whose bodies have never been found.

The cemetery is located within walking distance of the flat where I live, and like the Chinese cemetery downtown, it is one of the few places in Metro Manila which act as a sanctuary of tranquility. A walk through the American cemetery is evocative, thought-provoking and highly recommended.

The only bamboo organ in the world

The bamboo organ of Las Pinas is said to be so famous that every organist in the world has heard of it. The organ was made in 1824 by a Spanish friar and scientist. It is the only known organ in the world to be made entirely of bamboo, since just its trumpet stops are made of metal. It is now housed in the Parish Church of Saint Joseph, just a few hundred metres away 

from the Sarao Jeepney factory. 

Along with the church and its surrounding structures, the organ has been restored to its original 19th century look. Having sustained major damage in the past as a result of some of the many typhoons and earthquakes to have hit the Philippines during the past two centuries, the organ needed to be painstakingly restored by experts in Germany in the 1970s. Once renovation was complete, it was shipped back from Europe and subsequently declared a 'national treasure' by the National Museum of the Philippines. The International Bamboo Organ Festival is now held annually in February to commemorate its return.

Jule with the original bellows used to pump air into the organ.

The beautifully restored bamboo roof of the church.

The nave of the Parish Church of Saint Joseph.

The world-famous bamboo organ.

A view of the congregation from the organ.

Another beautiful bamboo ceiling in one of the chapels.

A visit to Sarao Jeepney factory

Manila traffic is a phenomenon that it takes some time to get used to. The streets of the capital are invariably clogged with vehicles of all kinds and trikes in particular make their own inimitable contribution. They are used to transport anything from a family of 7 

to a multitude of slaughtered pigs.

The Jeepney of course is the lifeblood which enables tens of thousands of people to navigate their way across the city continually day after day, even in times of complete gridlock, as shown here behind the gate in Chinatown. 

When the US military re-occupied the islands after General MacArthur's return in October 1944, they successfully ended the Japanese occupation of the Philippines and World War Two subsequently drew to a close. The Philippines were granted independence on 4th July, 1946 and in the aftermath of the war between the US and Japan, hundreds of military jeeps were left behind. A kalesa (horse-drawn carriage) driver called Leandro Sarao saw the potential in adapting them to best suit Filipino needs and Sarao Jeepneys were born. They went on to become an international trademark known right across the world. 

Consequently in 1953, he and his brothers set about attaching a roof to the Jeep. In addition, they extended the back of the vehicle by approximately 2 metres and having done so
then added 2 rows of seats for additional passengers. 

Space at the front was extremely cramped for the driver and the design 

of the Jeepney's dashboard remained extremely basic.

Sitting in the driver's seat gives you a good perspective of how 

limited space at the front was...

and indeed still is!

Unlike the interiors of the vehicles, however, their exteriors were most definitely ostentatious and extremely eye-catching. The Sarao brothers prided themselves on their ability to make
each and every Jeepney an individual creation. 

Each section was meticulously fashioned by hand with the workers going over every detail in order to make the Jeepney distinct from all others in existence. It is said that it was this personalization
which has endeared to Jeepney to both the general public and tourists alike
across several generations. 

The company eventually stopped mass production in the year 2000 due to changes in government regulations. However, the factory is still in operation today where Leandro's sons continue to produce Jeepneys by hand, (albeit in smaller quantities), using exactly the same 

techniques that their father and uncles used almost 60 years ago.

Manila Chinese Cemetery

The Chinese Cemetery in Manila is quite literally a peaceful oasis of the sleeping dead to be found right in the middle of one of the most chaotic, overcrowded and bustling metropoles in the world. As soon as you enter the gate, you immediately leave behind the noise, stench and overpowering intensity of the capital.  Instead you experience a tranquility scarcely conceivable given the madness that surrounds you on all sides just metres away.

During the Spanish colonial period which lasted until the very end of the nineteenth century, non-Catholics were not allowed to be buried in the city cemeteries. This burial ground therefore became the designated resting place for Chinese citizens who were denied the right to be buried elsewhere. Given the historical presence of a Chinese community in Manila, it is the second oldest cemetery in the entire city.

Consequently, the cemetery itself is huge. It consists of a vast network of roads and alleyways, all of which are lined with mausoleums of some kind, the variety of which is quite astounding to observe. Some are opulent, others basic; some are well-maintained, others dilapidated; some are enormous, others miniature; some are modern, others historical. On occasion, caretakers are employed to guard the edifice, and some even contain electricity and complete kitchen units. Food is left as an offering by some gravestones, while wet washing hanging out to dry is clearly visible in others.

Bicycles appears to be the most common form of transport within the cemetery and there also seems to be an abundance of dogs. Children's graves are grouped together, as are the older graves dating from the nineteenth century. One edifice on the site also commemorates the brutal executions conducted by the Japanese military during the Second World War after prominent Chinese community leaders were rounded up following the invasion in 1941. The Martyrs' Hall monument was erected here in the Fifties to honour those killed as a result.  

The film below contains various images of the cemetery, including the red-brick Chong Hock Tong Temple. Built in the 1850s, this is the oldest Chinese Temple in Manila. The film ends with 3 shots of the Ruby Tower Memorial, commemorating the Chinese-Filipinos who were among the 260 people who perished when the 6-storey Ruby Tower apartment complex collapsed during the deadly earthquake which hit Manila on August 2nd, 1968. A subsequent investigation revealed the tragedy was due to a combination of poor design, deficient construction, inadequate inspection and poor supervision. Despite the fact that more than a dozen people were later charged with murder due to criminal negligence, nobody was ever brought to justice.

Lechon & the Filipino art of roasting pork

For those in the know, there are a few streets in Manila rightly called the Lechon capital of the Philippines. Lechon being the national Filipino dish of succulent pork roasted slowly over a spit, these streets come alive during the run-up to Christmas when supply can barely keep pace with the incredible surge in demand.

To begin with, the pigs are brought in on the back of a open-air truck where space is clearly at a premium and not easy to come by.

As the pigs are removed from the vehicle, the atmosphere amongst the vendors remains one of overwhelming joviality. Crime and poverty statistics indicate that human life is often regarded as cheap in Manila, so lack of compassion for animals being slaughtered to put food on a family's table is scarcely a surprise. Besides which, the food industry in the West can hardly claim to be any more compassionate. The only difference is, the process cannot be viewed so openly and so publicly. 

Once out of the truck, the pigs are herded into rather unsanitary rooms to await slaughter. It is like a scene out of Michael Palin's classic film A Private Function and I was half expecting Liz Smith to appear saying "No pig!" 

Once slaughtered, the pigs are readied for roasting.

At the back of the vendors' stalls there are huge open pits where pigs are roasted dozens at a time. The heat emanating from the embers is phenomenal, especially in light of the high temperatures making you sweat profusely anyway. It is like being in front of a furnace powering a steam locomotive.

The pigs are not only turned but also basted with a mop drenched in secret ingredients to ensure that they are prepared in the traditional Filipino way.

To ensure they remain in place during the roasting, their snouts are nailed to the poles they are placed on and they are then tied to maintain lack of mobility.

The scene vividly reminds me of a passage from William Golding's Lord of the Flies when Jack and his hunters first kill the sow on the island they have landed on. As Simon explictly states, the pig has been speared "right up the arse!" Only now the reason for doing so is one of practicality rather than lust for violence.

Once ready, the Lechon are placed along the street for purchase.

You can buy them either individually...

... or for all branches of your extended family. 

Whatever you decide, the mood remains one of festivity and celebration.

Once the transaction has taken place, the vendors will either drag the prized meal to your car...

... or they will gift wrap it for you...

... and then deliver it personally to your house.

I have to confess, observing most of the process from start to finish was far more interesting than going to Sainsbury's to buy either a nut roast or turkey. Thanks Arnel for making it possible.

Tagaytay at the 4th time of asking

Persistence combined with the luck evidently brought by Jule's on-going presence in December eventually paid dividends. At the 4th time of asking, I finally made it to the crater lake at Tagaytay, reputedly the smallest active volcano in the entire world. 

We both agreed it was a just reward for every ounce of energy we had sacrificed to get there. 

The first time I went to Tagaytay, I got within a few kilometres of the crater lake before I was enveloped by one of the thickest blankets of fog I'd ever seen in my entire life. Trying to go further was pointless. 

My second attempt was likewise foiled by the elements. It was Nicky's last full day in Manila and despite the lousy weather forecast we decided to chance our luck by driving through torrential rain in the early hours of the morning. As we sat like 2 drowned rats in Starbucks on Tagaytay ridge, we found ourselves staring out into a complete void. During one very brief break in the cloud cover, we rushed outside to take a quick picture to convince ourselves that there was actually a volcano out there somewhere. 

The third attempt was cancelled when it coincided with the weather which caused the massive flash floods which cost almost a thousand lives further south in Mindanao in the run-up to Christmas. Luckily the weather was fine for Kathrina's wedding a day or two later, so consequently we decided to try again on the return trip, and this time luck was on our side. 

Lake Taal is itself a volcanic crater and at the centre of the lake is an island containing two further craters, one of which harbours the so-called lake within a lake. After travelling 30 minutes by boat to reach the island, upon disembarking we were inundated by local hustlers trying their utmost to convince us to make the trip to the top on horseback. As forewarned, we were continually told that it was too far too walk to the summit, whereupon Jule and I just smiled, sweated a little more and then continued on our way. 

Apart from a French guy who rapidly overtook us, we were pretty much the only ones who did.

The entire pathway was congested with Korean tourists, a lot of them rather portly it has to be said, who had shamelessly paid for the privilege of being carried up and down the steep hill on horseback.  I say on horseback, but on the back of a donkey would be a more appropriate term, given the animals' puny sizes. The so-called guides, often too lazy to walk themselves, would then hang on to the creatures' tails and allow themselves to be pulled up by the mule, already struggling to cope with the oversized Korean ensconced on its back. I hope you'll pardon the pun, but it certainly wasn't difficult to tell which one was the true ass.

Having seen how terribly animals are treated at markets in Vietnam, I can't say I was shocked by this. However, as a tourist I didn't feel the need to contribute to this peculiar form of eco-sadism, but then perhaps we Brits are just over-sensitive animal lovers. 

With regard to the actual path to the top, after spending several months in Manila, it felt truly liberating to be able to walk in an open space surrounded by greenery and water on all sides. There were even spots on the way up where the fissures were smoking due to the volcanic rock beneath.

Both Jule and I were sweating profusely by the time we reached the top, but it was well worth it. The view was amazing. The crater really is a lake within a lake, and it was breathtaking.

Once at the top, Jule and I walked along a narrow path around the rim of the crater, where you can get dangerously close to the crater's edge. 

Caution is a necessity as it is a sheer drop of several hundred feet to the lake below if you lose your footing. But Jule couldn't resist the temptation to sit right on the edge.

Our return trek to the boat was equally pleasurable as we could enjoy a different view to the one we had on the way up. 

Shortly afterwards we reached our boat for the return journey back. While crossing the water minutes later it quickly became apparent how quickly the daylight was fading and it made for a dramatic back-drop.

We arrived back at the car just before darkness descended. It was interesting to note that as we did so, cut-throat hustlers were still shepherding yet more tourists into the boats to start their journey to the island, knowing fully well that it would be impossible for them to proceed even a few metres after disembarking on the island due to a lack of visibility. There is certainly no shortage of people hustling to make a quick buck here any way they can in order to survive.

All in all, it was well the effort Jule and I invested in getting to the top and I'm just sorry I wasn't able to experience it with Nicky as well. However, I'm hopeful there'll be a next time.

Kathrina's Wedding

Some images from Kathrina and Paul's wedding at Stilts, Calatagan on 21st December 2011.

It was an unbelievable day with the magic of the setting, the weather and the ceremony.

Thanks for some great memories.

Johnny Rockets - Authentic Asian Culture

Fort Bonifacio is clearly in need of further Americanization. Just to prove it, Johnny Rockets 

finally opened its doors during the run-up to Christmas right in front of my tower block. 

Enticed by the smell of fat-drenched burgers and potato-less fries, Jule and I decided to 

check out the action. It wasn't long before she was intoxicated by the atmosphere

and strutting her funky stuff on the veranda. I was more interested in trying 

to figure out what on earth was in my veggie burger.

I still haven't worked out the answer.

Every 15 minutes or so, the waiters venture out to entice passers-by to come inside and dine. 

They do so by captivating them in their own inimitable way. John Travolta eat your heart out! 

These boys have sure got rhythm.

As an avid Steve Mcgarrett fan while growing up in the 1970s, there was only one tune I wanted to hear. Sure enough, my request didn't fall on deaf ears and soon things really started to liven up.

Book 'im Danno!

The highlight of the evening proved to be a guest who was sitting in the restaurant itself trying to eat his burger in peace without watching a load of cooks and waiters gyrate their pelvis in his face. 

Unfortunately he'd cheered up a bit by the time the staff appeared to taunt him a second time, but I still couldn't resist capturing the remains of his scowl for posterity's sake as the boogie boogie music just went on and on. Just listen to the rapturous applause at the end!

So what Filipino culinary delights can you expect to sample if you visit Manila? 

Real Pinoy fare combined with ethnic Oriental dancing at Johnny Rockets of course.
A truly Asian experience!