For those in the know, there are a few streets in Manila rightly called the Lechon capital of the Philippines. Lechon being the national Filipino dish of succulent pork roasted slowly over a spit, these streets come alive during the run-up to Christmas when supply can barely keep pace with the incredible surge in demand.
To begin with, the pigs are brought in on the back of a open-air truck where space is clearly at a premium and not easy to come by.
As the pigs are removed from the vehicle, the atmosphere amongst the vendors remains one of overwhelming joviality. Crime and poverty statistics indicate that human life is often regarded as cheap in Manila, so lack of compassion for animals being slaughtered to put food on a family's table is scarcely a surprise. Besides which, the food industry in the West can hardly claim to be any more compassionate. The only difference is, the process cannot be viewed so openly and so publicly.
Once out of the truck, the pigs are herded into rather unsanitary rooms to await slaughter. It is like a scene out of Michael Palin's classic film A Private Function and I was half expecting Liz Smith to appear saying "No pig!"
Once slaughtered, the pigs are readied for roasting.
At the back of the vendors' stalls there are huge open pits where pigs are roasted dozens at a time. The heat emanating from the embers is phenomenal, especially in light of the high temperatures making you sweat profusely anyway. It is like being in front of a furnace powering a steam locomotive.
The pigs are not only turned but also basted with a mop drenched in secret ingredients to ensure that they are prepared in the traditional Filipino way.
To ensure they remain in place during the roasting, their snouts are nailed to the poles they are placed on and they are then tied to maintain lack of mobility.
The scene vividly reminds me of a passage from William Golding's Lord of the Flies when Jack and his hunters first kill the sow on the island they have landed on. As Simon explictly states, the pig has been speared "right up the arse!" Only now the reason for doing so is one of practicality rather than lust for violence.
Once ready, the Lechon are placed along the street for purchase.
You can buy them either individually...
... or for all branches of your extended family.
Whatever you decide, the mood remains one of festivity and celebration.
Once the transaction has taken place, the vendors will either drag the prized meal to your car...
... or they will gift wrap it for you...
... and then deliver it personally to your house.
I have to confess, observing most of the process from start to finish was far more interesting than going to Sainsbury's to buy either a nut roast or turkey. Thanks Arnel for making it possible.
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