Big Bird in Asia - part 6 - Pagsanjan Falls & Tagaytay

For David's last weekend in the Philippines we decided to really push the boat out. 

Quite literally as it turned out.

To protect ourselves against the elements during our trip upriver to Pagsanjan Falls, we donned our rain capes, lifejackets and safety helmets.

Our lead boatman needed all his experience to navigate the many hazards enroute.

Despite his size, he was incredibly strong and athletic.

Our anchorman at the back was presumably his father.

Due to the heavy rains, which had swollen the river level to its absolute limits, we were the only visitors as we ventured into what felt like virgin jungle.

The scenery all around was breathtaking. 

The experience was almost magical from start to finish.

Despite having 3 passengers on board the dugout canoe (including two monstrously heavy heffalumps by Filipino standards) our oarsmen nevertheless succeeded in pulling us against the current through the rocks and rapids.

In 1979 Francis Ford Coppola used this actual river to shoot scenes from Apocalypse Now and at times it almost felt as if we were on the set.

Due to the rising water levels, we were not allowed to continue on to the main falls, which were closed due to safety concerns. 

However, Talahib Falls enroute provided a spectacular backdrop.

Having arrived at our destination, two raftsmen suddenly appeared.

After inching their way towards us via a rope, we then boarded their raft to enable them to take us directly under the deluge from above. Feeling the full force of the waterfall on our safety helmets and shoulders was unbelievable.

Having taken an hour to reach the falls, the return downstream journey, known locally as Shooting the Rapids, was considerably quicker. 

As with our upstream journey, we were expecting Martin Sheen to appear between the palm trees on the river bank at any moment.

This time the elder of the two boatsmen was up front, negotiating each of the 14 rapids will admirable skill.

Local families were enjoying the elevated water level as it gave them easier access to the river to do their washing.

Having arrived safely back on land, Arnel negotiated his way through the trikes in good time to enable us to head across Taal Lake to visit what is said to be the smallest active volcano in the world.

We got a taste of the forthcoming weather on the boat ride over. The spray was so intense that I could barely keep my eyes open.

After the perpetual rain, the landscape all around us during our upward climb was incredibly lush.

Ongoing volcanic activity ensures that the geological formations on view are composed of chemically-induced vibrant colours.

After reaching the volcano's rim, relief can be found in the form of a luxury toilet, commonly referred to  in the Philippines as a Comfort Room or C-R for short.

Female hustlers along the path on the rim do their utmost to encourage trekkers to hit golf balls which they provide you with (at inflated prices of course) out across the lake and into the water below. David and I were far more interested in admiring the incredible view.

It's a sheer drop over the cliff edge, but David still braved the danger to see it for himself.

The colour of the ground was amazing. It was like looking at a picture of the earth around Uluru in Australia. 

Hot fumes visibly emanate from the fissures in the rocks down below.

There have been 33 recorded eruptions at Taal since 1572.

During one of the largest recorded eruptions in 1574, the local town was buried beneath a layer of ash and mud 2.2 metres thick. 

The current shape of the volcanic cone was determined by the devastating eruption of 1911 which claimed around 1,500 lives. 

The explosion was so powerful that it was heard by people right across an area measuring 600 miles in diameter.

The blast scattered ashes over an area covering 2,000 square kilometers.

The main crater, which itself contains a lake, is picturesquely situated on an island in the middle of Taal Lake, both of which are visible from the cone's rim.

As we headed back down the volcano, the heavens opened once more.

I sought what little refuge I could under my rain cape on the pump boat.

However, all of my efforts were in vain.

As I began to resemble a drowned rat, David attempted to keep my spirits up.

As he did so, the weight of my rain cape grew increasingly heavy and I soon felt the need to bale out the water that was rapidly collecting between my legs.

In trying to dispose of it as self-effacingly as possible, it nevertheless looked as if I was wetting myself.

As we headed back to Manila, with Arnel doing his utmost to avoid the landslides now on the roads, we stopped for one final view of the lake and volcano in the fast fading light.

There was to be no let up in the inclement weather the following day, but David and I were nevertheless determined to brave the elements one last time and enjoy a final excursion to the island of Corregidor together before he returned to Europe.